October 28, 2009
What’s the big deal about caviar?
For us in the West, caviar is often associated with luxury and wealth. While it is simple to serve, it can be expensive. At one time, 90 percent of the world’s caviar came from the United States. It was so plentiful it was served in saloons much like pretzels are today.
Caviar is the processed, salted roe (eggs) of sturgeon. (If it comes from any other fish, such as salmon or paddlefish, it must be noted on the label.)
Every species of sturgeon is on the endangered list. The largest remaining population is in the Caspian Sea, shared by Russian and Iranian producers. The harvest and sale of black caviar has been banned in Russia since 2007 and extends for 10 years, except for research and breeding.
The three main varieties of caviar are Beluga, Osetra and Sevruga. The most expensive (except for the extremely rare Sterlet) is Beluga. Its roe are large, ranging in color from black to pale grey, and it has a smooth, buttery flavor.
Osetra is the next most expensive. It consists of medium-size eggs ranging in color from dark brown to light grey and even golden brown. It has a nutty, slightly fruity flavor. Many prefer tyhis taste to Beluga.
Sevruga has the smallest roe. It ranges from black to light gray in color. Like Beluga it has a buttery flavor but is richer and saltier. Its intense, unique flavor is highly valued. It is the least expensive of the three main varieties.
Caviar is rated according to the size and color of the eggs, and the method of processing. Color is designated as 000 for light caviar, 00 for medium or 0 for dark.
Light or golden caviar is also designated “Imperial” and was at one time reserved for royalty. The best caviar is generally considered light golden in color with large grains. However, the most expensive caviars are priced by rarity, not taste.
There are four methods of processing caviar.
Malossol is the method preferred by connoisseurs. The name means “lightly salted” and it contains from 3.5 to 5 percent salt. This term can be used to describe any high-quality caviar.
The second method is “salted caviar,” also called semi-preserved. It contains up to 8 percent salt. Higher salt content contributes to longer shelf life, but flavor may be compromised.
Pressed caviar is made from too-soft, damaged, and overly ripe eggs. It is treated, highly salted, and pressed to a jam-like consistency. At one time it was the only method available for preserving caviar. Some connoisseurs prefer it because of its highly concentrated flavor and aroma.
The last caviar type is pasteurized. This process involves heating and vacuum packing caviar into jars. It has a much longer shelf life, however both taste and texture may be affected.
There are numerous less-expensive alternatives to caviar. As supply and production dwindled, the United States and more than a dozen countries began farming sturgeon to preserve the industry. Commonly farmed varieties are Osetra, Baerii and White Sturgeon.
There are many varieties of roe taken from rivers and lakes in America. They include paddlefish, which is similar to Beluga with clear, glossy beads, light gray to golden brown in color and with a buttery flavor; hackleback, which is sweet, nutty and buttery, and has medium-size roe that is firm with a rich, glossy black color; salmon, which is bright orange in color with a distinctive popping quality in the mouth and fairly intense flavor, (it is considered kosher because salmon have scales); and whitefish, which has a golden color, mild flavor that takes well to infusing with ginger, truffle or saffron flavors, small grains and an almost crunchy characteristic.
In serving caviar, the simplest ways are best. Usually, it is served cold in a small crystal bowl laid on a bed of cracked ice along with toast points or blinis. Garnishes may include crème fraiche, chopped egg yolks and whites, capers and onion.
Another popular dish is caviar pie, in which various types and grades of caviar are arranged in a decorative pattern on top of a layered spread.
Caviar is served with a small spoon made of natural material, such as horn, mother-of-pearl, or wood. Silver reacts with roe and adversely affects the flavor and appearance of the eggs.
My most interesting experience with caviar was when I was passing hors d’oeuvres to some frisky octogenarians at a cocktail party. One gentleman happily dipped his tortilla chip into the bowl on my tray, devouring about $200 worth of caviar in one bite.
I was a little shocked, but what the heck, he might have been around when eating caviar was just like eating pretzels in a dance hall.
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