You have to know the Hannons to understand the smile on their faces as they were rescued at sea after the 56-foot Carver they were delivering caught fire. No matter what, they are all about laughter. So it was no surprise for us to see them smiling on television, laughing about their experience, making jokes about the rescue efforts. It doesn't make them less professional, despite what television reporters and bloggers say. It's what makes them our friends.

Exiting each temple for our awaiting tuk-tuk, we were approached by children. Charming, tidy children selling things. I had read that it wasn't good to buy goods from children outside tourist areas because many of these children were orphans or homeless, working for unseen adults. Paying for their wares only encouraged the grown ups to take advantage of them.

We went to the Tiger Temple yesterday. Our friend on Ocelot, Sue, first mentioned it. It sounded like a rehabilitation place for the giant cats. And if we arrived late in the day, she said, we would be able to walk with them for their evening meal and exercise.

Here we are after about a week in Luang Prabang and I could not put a finger on what I found so enjoyable about this location. After all, the sun has only broken through the smoked-filled skies once.